Note from Bill - In 1919, Westclox published a parts and repair manual entitled "First Aid for injured Westclox". Shown below is all the text relating to general information and repair. The manual includes parts lists for America, America - 1918 Model, Alternating, Baby Ben, Big Ben, Big Ben - 1918 Model, Bingo, Ironclad, LaSallita, Lookout, Sleep-Meter, Bunkie, Pocket Ben, Luminous Dials, Two-Inch Movement, and addendum listing interchangeable parts.
See PDF of the complete catalog.
A book gottten out to make it easy for you to put alarm clock casualties promptly back in service and at the same time to add substantially to your profits.
It is a long jump from clocks and watches to automobiles, yet the two lines have many things in common.
It's a good thing to study the other man's methods. Once in a while you find something you can use.
The same criticism has been made of the average garage owner that has been made out of the average jeweler. Both are mechanics. Both started into business via the repair route. Both added stocks of goods after they had developed a repair business. Both are accused of being better mechanics than they are salesmen, or merchants.
There's this difference. The watchmaker developed his business by individual effort. He followed customs and traditions established by watchmakers who were in business before him. He suffers from trade abuses started before he was born.
The garage man is in a comparatively new line of business. He did not have to seek his trade. It sought him.
In the early days automobiles needed lots of tinkering, and the owner was on the lookout for man with skill and ability.
The automobile industry was developed quickly through advertising. Many of the trade abuses of other lines were omitted on the jump. The garage man is never in debt for a new car. It comes to him draft attached to bill of lading. He pays for it before he gets it.
There are no unlimited guarantees in the automobile business. On one of the highest priced cars you get a guarantee of three months. That covers defective material. The owner pays the cost of replacing the defective part.
The garage man does not guarantee his work. No need to point out to you the watchmaker's side of this.
A big word in the automobile business is service. All the companies advertise service stations. Your garage man talks service, so let's find out just what they mean by it.
Service, as far as we can learn, is nothing more or less than the ability to repair or adjust. You get precious little of it for nothing.
When the car is new a few minor adjustments may be required to get it running smoothly. These, of course, are made without charge. After this, service calling for adjustments which require some time, or for replacement of worn parts, means the regular charge per hour for the mechanic's time, plus a charge for the material used.
The automobile owner has never known anything else, consequently he does not expect anything else. He's satisfied, and takes better care of his car then he would if he could get a lot of free work on it.
The garage offers some free service-free air and free water. The compressed air tank is a convenience in their work. They're willing to let you make use of it. Frequently, if their mechanic blows up your tires for you, there's a charge if ten to twenty cents. It's only the air that's free.
Water costs very little.
Some places will test and fill your batteries free. This is another service item. It enables the service station to see that the batteries are in good order, and to issue a warning to the owner if any repairs are needed.
The free water and air are used as advertising. The garage man is graduating from a repair man to a merchant. He finds that repair work at a dollar an hour is fairly profitable in itself, but that its biggest profit lies in bringing people to his garage, and giving him a chance to suggest accessories.
The sale of a lamp, a tire, a bumper or a heater nets him more profit in a few minutes than his mechanic will make in several hours.
Satisfactory repair work or service often helps him to sell a new machine. Here's one other striking thing about the garage man. He will accept any kind of a car for repair, it may be the cheapest, flimsiest make on the market, or the very highest priced. His charge for repairing it is so much per hour plus the cost of material. He hasn't got the habit of setting a price for his work before he starts at it unless it's a standardized operation.
The car you bring in may be in such bad shape that his rough estimate of the cost or repairing it will be more than the worth of the car. In that case he will probably recommend the purchase of a new car, and help you buy it.
He doesn't object to working on a car that's in bad shape. He figures that the oftener it comes in the more he'll make out of it and the more opportunity he has to sell accessories and to talk new machine.
Every time the car comes in to have work done upon it, a charge is put against it.
Service in the automobile world means expert care at a worth while price, and the automobile industry is making this kind of service pay.
Let's consider the same points in regard to the watchmaker and the clocks.
Is there such a word as clock or watch service?
The nearest approach to it is that unfortunate word "guarantee." The watchmaker usually guarantees clock or watch work for a year. the customer expects him to tinker it up, adjust it, and keep it in running order for that year or more.
The customer expects this because watchmakers have led him to expect it. Why shouldn't service on clocks and watches mean the same thing that it does in the automobile business—the ability to repair at a cost that will enable a first class workman to give proper service.
Free regulating could compare to free air. It takes but a moment and you a chance to see what condition the watch is in, to suggest repairs if necessary, thus serving the customer, and to suggest a new watch to replace an old one.
You have big advantage over the garage man. His entire stock relates to automobiles. Your stock comprises thousands of items for almost every use and occasion.
The watchmaker is likely to turn down certain types of clocks, not even to accept them for repair. The garage man would turn a lot of these into new sales.
The watchmaker turns these down because he hasn't learned to sell his time by the hour. he sells his work by the job. If watchmakers sold their work on the time basis, they would accept these worn out clocks or watches the same as the garage man takes in an old car, and the owner would shortly see that it would be economy for him to purchase a new one! This should be the advice of the watchmaker before the watch was accepted.
Some jewelers have torn a leaf out of the garage man's book. They take in all kinds of repairs. They make service pay. One particular class of business that they encourage is alarm clock repairs. They find that alarm clock is as profitable as watch repairing. It brings in customers for other lines.
Some dealers have carefully figured the cost of material and labor in doing certain standard jobs, in order to name a definite price when the clock is left. The list shows the scale of repair charges used by some of the men who have made a success of alarm clock service.This book is planned to make it easy for you to find the material you require. You will find all the parts of a clock shown on a page, with a picture of the clock itself. Every part is numbered plainly on the page. On the other side of the sheet is given the number, the name, and the price of the part. This makes ordering very simple and easy. It avoids confusion and error.
Clock Repairs |
|
Cleaning—general overhauling, point balance | $1.25 |
Main Spring | .75 |
Alarm Spring | .75 |
Keys | .15 |
Alarm Set | .15 |
Hand Set | .25 |
Glass | .25 |
Click Spring | .50 |
Hour Hand | .35 |
Minute Hand | .35 |
Alarm Indicator | .35 |
Pair Hands | .50 |
Screws, Case, Bell | .15 |
Screws, Balance | .35 |
Wheels—3rd, 4th, etc. | .50 |
Dial | .50 |
Leg & Case Ring Bow | .25 |
Watch Repairs |
|
Cleaning—putting in order | .75 |
Crystal | .25 to .35 |
Hand | .15 ea .25 pair |
Main Spring | .50 |
Case Ring Bow | .15 |
Men in the factory often have different names for parts than those used by men working at the watchmaker's bench in the store. This plan of illustration makes it almost impossible for you to order the wrong part.
On another page are listed three assortments of material. These offer the most convenient way of ordering material. The selection is based on our experience of the parts most frequently ordered. The price is lower, as this method saves you and us time and money.
In making up these assortments we chose that are most frequently called for, and in the proportions in which they are most generally used. It would have been very simple to say six of each part, and let it go at that. Instead we've tried to choose this assortment so that it ill be one of the greatest possible use to you.
That's not the only way in which we've considered your end of it. If you were to buy this material at the prices quoted in our material catalog, one or two pieces at a time you'd pay over $2.00 for the material, and you'd pay postage on each individual lot. By making a large number of these assortments up at one time, we save considerable in packing and shipping. That's why we give you a special price price on the assortment. $2.00 worth of material at $1.50, and postage paid.
The assortment idea saves us times and you money. You will find a number of tips for repairing Westclox—shortcuts developed in the factory where we work on one kind of clock all day long, shortcuts you would discover under the same circumstances. Alarm clock repairing is desirable and profitable. If this book helps you to increase your business, it will serve its purpose.
Some watchmakers will calmly turn from setting a roller jewel, or the pallets of a high-priced watch, in shellac, and tell the Westclox salesman that they do not believe in the use of Babbitt Metal for clock wheels. The principle is exactly the same.
The shellac is really a binder or cement. It holds the parts together and in the proper relative position. No wear comes upon it. It is chosen because it melts as a low temperature, and sets almost instantly. Babbitt Metal is used in Westclox for exactly the same reason. It is a metal that melts at a comparatively low temperature, and sets instantly. No wear comes upon it. It holds the parts together in the proper relative position.
This method allows us to use small, had, highly-polished pinions and pivots. This construction reduces friction so much that a Westclox main spring will not run the ordinary alarm clock. We know of a number of Westclox which have been running for twenty-three years,and are still giving good satisfaction.
An easy way to test the light running qualities of Westclox is to take a Westclox alarm, and one of another make, set them on a table, and wind them without allowing any motion swinging motion to the clocks. The Westclox alarm most likely will start ticking before it is half wound up. The other clock will probably need some assistance, even after being fully wound.
Westclox patented construction gives long life, accurate timekeeping. The Westclox escapement is the same in principle as the high-grade watch. This is only made possible by this type of construction.
Some watchmakers have been unable to get accustomed to the appearance of the westclox movement. Those watchmakers who have tested out its timekeeping qualities and its durability, are recommended them to their customers. We are willing to rest the case on the performance of our clocks.
Quality production has built up quantity demand. In many cases the demand has come faster than we could build up to meet it, for no increase in production is allowed unless the quality of the product can be maintained.
You can make as good a clock as you know how. You can watch it as carefully as possible through the manufacturing processes. You may study to improve it. You may pack as carefully as you please, but sometime, somewhere, some way, some of those clocks are going to go wrong.
It may not be the fault of the clock. It may be lack of proper care. It may be the result of an accident. Whatever it is, that clock is a clock that requires mending. That's the way the owner looks at it ,and the first person that he thinks about in connection with that clock is the jeweler.
Westclox have been repaired from the repair man's standpoint. They're made not only to wear well, to look well, but are made convenient to repair.
For instance, Big Ben, Baby Ben and Bingo spring barrels are bridged to the plates so that a spring may be changed without taking the movement down. The same is true of the watch.
By loosening three screws around the America case, the movement may be taken out. This makes the clock easier to repair, and supports the movement better. Sleepmeter and Bunkie are cased the same way.
Dust washers have been put on all Big Ben case openings. The openings for the switch levers and regulators have been to prevent dust from entering. This does not interfere with the movements of these parts. In most cases it is easier to fix a Westclox alarm than it is to pack it up and send it to the factory. Because so many watchmakers are realizing this, and because it's a profitable business to repair Westclox, we have gotten out this catalog.
To make it easy for you to select material, one sheet is devoted to a clock. Find the picture of the clock for which you want the material. grouped around it are the various parts which you are likely to want for repair purposes, with with the exceptions of dials. glasses, and case parts. Each part is plainly numbered.
Locate the part you want. Turn the page. Here the parts are listed in numeral order. THe name is given, as well as the price, singly or in dozen lots. Case parts not illustrated are listed and priced on this page.
In pays to order in dozen lots. In ordering, give the name and number of the part. In case the part is supplied in either nickel or brass, b sure to specify which finished is desired.
Slight changes are always being made in the construction of the different clocks. In ordering repair material for some job, mention the date stamped on the plate.The date will be found stamped on the front plate, for instance, 5 19 19. Giving the date will assure your receiving the proper part to fit your model you have to repair.
List your material order on a separate sheet from your clock order, or from a letter relating to other matters. This allows your order for material to go through by the quickest possible route, and insures prompter filling.
All orders are sent by parcel post uninsured, unless you request that insurance be placed on the package, and sent stamps covering the cost of the insurance. It costs three cents to insure a package valued at $5.00 or less.
The table below shows the rate for parcel post shipments, so that you can include in your order the correct amount of stamps to cover postage.
The prices quoted in this catalog are F. O. B. La Salle, New York, or San Francisco. Stocks of material are carried at New York and San Francisco. You can save considerable time by sending your order to the office nearest you. Cash to accompany order.
The minimum charge on any material order is ten cents.
We do not assume the responsibility for loss or damage that may occur in transit. Material is carefully packed to reach you in good condition. We take every precaution in this regard. After it's turned over the transportation company our responsibility ceases.
The pictures on the three following pages show a few handy tricks in repairing Westclox. These stunts have been worked out by the men in the factory who are handling Westclox day in and day out.
They use a lot of special tools. This has been taken into consideration in making the movies, and the only tools used in making these pictures should be available on the bench of any watchmaker.
Below the material price lists you will find someone other tips that may come in handy. It will pay you to run through this catalog for the time savers you will find.
Click springs sometimes fail. No matter how carefully you choose material, a or how carefully you treat it in the manufacturing process, you can't guarantee the life of a spring.
To put a click spring in our America, disengage the click ends from the ratchet teeth with a pair of cutting pliers, snip off the tongue that is riveted through the plate. Remove the hammer by spring the plate slightly.
Hold the new click spring in a pair of snipe-nosed pliers. Turn both spring barrels so none of the ratchet teeth come under the openings into which the spring ends fit.
Hold the center of the click spring on the end of a bench anvil. Use a chisel punch to rivet the tongue which projects though the plate, and put the movement back in the case. Time, fifteen minutes.
Several dealers have asked us how to remove Big Ben's winding key when the click spring is broken.
First, remove the three screws around the bezel, and pull off the front case. Through the hammer opening, engage the teeth of the time main wheel with a screw-driver, and unscrew the winding key.
The easiest way to fix the click spring is to use a new barrel bridge. A Big Ben or Baby Ben main- or alarm spring barrel and bridge may be removed bt taking out three screws. There's no need to take you down the movement. This makes them the handiest clocks on the market in which to put new springs.
Grasp the hub of the minute hand with the jaws of a long, flat-nosed pliers. In working the hand off, rock it gently from each side. Ease off the hour hand in the way.
Then remove the back bell and inside case. Hold the trip staff firmly with
a pair of pliers and loosen the friction nut. This will give ample room to
insert the pliers jaws between the dial and the indicator hub.
To replace turn the alarm set until the trip snaps in place. Point the indicator
directly at 7, and drive on. Turn the time set to the right until the indicator,
which moves with it, rests upon the figure 6.
Rest the center turn on a bench block and use a staking punch to drive the hour hand on at the numeral 6 and the minute hand between the numerals 11 and 12. Then test the alarm.
In replacing the front case, be sure the repeating switch stud is between the lever and hammer verge. Press the switch springs down so they clear the case.
The method of taking the clock apart is very simple.
Loosen the three screws in the flange under edge of gong enough to allow them to slide in slots. Grasp the bell firmly and turn slightly to right so screw heads will pass through large slots in flange.
Lift the movement out gently , bringing the lower part of the dial out first. Take off time and and alarm keys and four large screws through gong.
Be careful not to lose dust washers.
See that the bushing in the fan-shaped regulator dust-plate fits over the balance screw. If this bushing rides the screw head it will stop the pillar screws are tightened.
In returning movement, to case, hold switch levers toward ring head so that intermittent lever slides in without injury.
The alarm shut-off switch works in the opposite direction moves more easily.
This will lengthen the active service of Big Ben, as it makes it as nearly dustproof as a nickel alarm clock can be made.
Gummed oil is a common complaint of clocks. The remedy is cleaning and oiling.
Loosen the balance screw withdraw the hair spring wedge, and remove the balance wheel.
The force the lever pivot through the Babbitt Metal just far enough to let you spring the plate slightly and remove the lever.
Let the movement run down in gasoline a few times and give it a through going over with a chisel shaped brush, paying particular attention to pivot holes and countersinking.
Set it aside till the gasoline is thoroughly dry, then oil it with a good quality of clock oil. Put a few drops of oil on the mainsprings and touch the lever pallets with oil.
When you replace the balance wheel, wedge the hair spring where it is bent. In adjusting the balance screws, see that the balance points have very little side motion.
If the balance screws are too tight, a slight pressure on the plates will stop the movement.
The pictures show the easiest way to uncover Sleep-Meter's motor.
Number one shows the removal of the bell, after the Sleep-Meter is released.
To get a glimpse at t he movement, there's no need to take off the keys or bell. Loosen the screws and the movement comes right out. You can brush it out with gasoline and re-oil it without removing the dial or the hands.
If you want to go further you can proceed as shown in number 4 and detach the movement holder. It let's you get right at Sleep-Meter's innards. Most alarm clock troubles can be removed with gasoline and oil.
Sleep-Meter goes back just as easily as it came out.
Sometimes a watchmaker, by mistake, turns the screws out of the lugs. Be sure to put the lugs on the screws before putting the movement back in the case. On and a half turns of the case screws is enough to let the case slide freely in or out. Set them tight and the movement is in to stay. This is a simple way to fasten the movement in the case.
Sometimes, from one cause or another, the hands of an alarm clock do not "track" with the movement. This is usually a case of "loose center friction" and the remedy is simple when you know how.
Insert a screw driver between the friction collets and the back-plate. Then rest the back plate on a bench block or jeweler's anvil, with the shaft free , but close to the block. Tap the upper end of the shaft with a hammer as shown in the illustration. This will effectively tighten the friction and insure the proper relation between the movement of the hour hand and the minute hand.
At the same time it is well to see that all else is working freely and so avoid a repetition of the trouble. Our salesman will supply you with a special tool for tightening the center friction. Ask him for one the next time he comes in. It won't cost you a cent.
If you prefer, send us a post card asking for the "center friction tightener" and one will be mailed out at once post paid.
the America is so well put together that it may seem difficult to uncase. The movement can be taken out in a jiffy.
Catch the handle end of a pair of pliers under the roll of the bezel. Press back against the bell, and out comes the bezel. Remove the alarm indicator and the hands. The dial will spring out when it is tapped lightly just above the figure 2.
To remove the center turn, insert the handle ends of two pairs of pliers under it, as in the illustration. Rest one on the key and one on the case screw nearly opposite. A simultaneous pressure and it's off.
Remove the keys and the case screws and the movement is free.
The bezel, which fits friction tight, can be easily pressed in when a knife slid around between it and the case.
Before operating on an America, see which model it is.
The new model has three screws around the back outside edge. Loosen these and take movement out from back. The old model hasn't the screws.
Material Assortments |
||
Big Ben Assortment |
Baby Ben Assortment |
Special Assortment |
2 Time Barrel with Springs | 1 Time Barrel with Spring | 12 Balance Screws |
1 Alarm Barrel with Springs | 1 Alarm Barrel with Spring | 4 Time Springs |
3 Balance Wheels with Hair Springs | 3 Balance Wheels, Complete | 3 Balance Wheels, Complete |
3 Hair Springs | 3 Hair Springs | 3 Hand Sets |
3 Time Springs | 3 Time Springs | 3 Alarm Sets |
2 Hand Sets | 3 Alarm Springs | 2 Time Keys |
2 Alarm Sets | 2 Hand Sets | 2 Alarm Keys |
2 Time Keys | 2 Alarm Sets | 3 Hair Springs |
2 Alarm Keys | 2 Time Keys | 4 Alarm Springs |
18 Assorted Hands | 2 Alarm Keys | 12 Click Springs |
6 CLick Springs | 18 Assorted Hands | 18 Hands, Assorted |
12 Case Screws | 12 Case Screws | 6 Glasses |
12 Balance Screws | 12 Balance Screws | 1 each Time Main, Time Escape, Second, Third, Alarm Escape and Alarm Main Wheel. |
12 Gong Screws | 12 Gong Screws | |
3 Glasses | 6 Glasses | |
At catalog price material costs over $2.00. Assortment price $1.50 Postage paid if cash accompanies order. | ||
All Special Assortment parts fit America and some fit Lookout, Ironclad and Sleep-Meter. |
In the America, Lookout and Sleep-Meter the alarm spring can be replaced without taking the clock entirely apart. Loosen the third pillar, spring the plate slightly, remove the hammer lever, the alarm escape wheel, and the parts assembled as they were taken down. Care must be taken not to spring the plate too much.
Always scratch the date of sale on the back of the clock. People are inclined to forget the length of time they have owned clock. If you can show them the date of purchase plainly marked they have no come back. It will mean the sale of a new clock. It's good idea to mark the date repaired, for the same reason.
A good many parts are interchangeable. You'll get onto this in handling Westclox repairs.
If the nickel cases of alarm clocks show dark stains, the best way to remove them and restore the nickel to its former brightness is to use finally-powdered and washed crocus (oxide of iron), applied with a chamois. This removes all blemishes. If after this operation , the surface is a little dull, rub to a bright polish with dry putty powder (oxide of tin) , sprinkled on another wash leather, and a brilliant polish will result. Dampness, if allowed to remain, renders the brightness nickel surface dull, but if the articles are wiped with a dry, soft cloth ar frequent intervals, the crocus method will not be required.
On most Westclox it's possible to turn the balance screw with a pair of pliers. A tool used in the factory is a screw diver with the tip of the blade bent at right angles. This makes a very handy tool. You can always set the blade in the slot of the screw. It gives a good purchase, and enables you to make delicate adjustments on the balance screw.
The adjustment of the balance screw has a lot to do with the satisfactory performance of the clock.
A Big Ben balance screw should be tightened gently, until it almost stops the balance wheel, then release it gradually until the wheel runs freely, with very little end shake.
On the lower priced it is necessary to allow a little more end shake, as the plates are not so rigid, and a slight pressure of the case will cause it to stop if the balance screw is to tight.
The balance wheel should have a slight play from end to end, but should never be loose enough so the point wobbles loosely from side to side in the balance screw. The point of the balance staff should have very little side motion.
Another thing to look out for in recasing the new model Big Ben is the dust guard for the regulator opening. Be sure that the hole slips over the head of the balance screw, or setting the screws in the back of the case will force the balance screw down and cramp the balance staff and stop the clock.
Some watchmakers claim that it's hard to make the hour hand hold in place, after it is put back. Close up the edges of the brass bushing on the hour hand with a pair of ordinary flat pliers, then drive the hour hand on and you'll have no difficulty.
If the minute hand or indicator does not fit tightly, lay the hand face down on a bench anvil, and give the brass bushing a sharp tap with a hammer, then stake on.
To remove the new model America or Bunkie from the case, follow the same general plan suggested for Sleep-Meter. Be careful not to bend the alarm hammer in taking the movement out.
It is not necessary to remove the dial wheels and the shuck pinion in taking down a Western clock. Leave the dial wheels in place, and push the center shaft through the black plate.
Pocket Ben watch parts will also fit Glo-Ben and Boyproof. Nickel case parts are sent out unless gilt or gun metal are asked for.
One of the best ways to insure a satisfactory job of cleaning or oiling an alarm clock is to repoint the balance staff and put in new balance screws. In repointing be sure that you maintain the same angle or taper, and that the points are thoroughly smoothed. Some workmen sharpen them to a blunt point. This does more harm than good, as it creates unusual friction.
Pivot wires should not work loose in the wheels. No strain comes on the wire that would cause it to turn in the casting. Try pushing one through a new wheel. It takes quite a pressure to start. Once started it never grips the same again.
Loose pivots are caused by pulling the wire through. The only remedy is a new wheel.
If you do pull a pivot through, file the end to a blunt point before pushing it back. This removes the burr, and prevents it from cutting the casting.
Baby Ben Luminous |
||
M120 | Dial,Luminous,Mounted on Plate | .50 Ea. |
M124 | Hand, Alarm Indicator,Brass | .10 Dz. |
M125 | Hand,Hour,Luminous....... | .10 Ea. |
M126 | Hand,Minute,Luminous.... | 10 Ea. |
Regular Baby Ben parts are illustrated and listed on pages nineteen and twenty. Special Baby Ben assortment listed on page twelve. | ||
Jack o' Lantern |
||
N120 | Dial, Luminous, Mounted on Plate | .60 Ea. |
N124 | Hand, Alarm, Indicator, Brass | .10 Dz. |
N125 | Hand, Hour, Luminous | .10 Ea. |
N126 | Hand, Minute, Luminous | .10 Ea. |
The only difference between Jack o' Lantern and Sleep-Meter is the dial, hand and alarm indicator, therefore, the Sleep-Meter parts illustrated and listed on pages thirty-three and thirty-four will fit Jack o' Lantern. | ||
Glo-Ben |
||
O120 | Dial, Luminous, Mounted on Plate | .50 Ea. |
O125 | Hand, Hour, Luminous | .10 Ea. |
O126 | Hand, Minute, Luminous | .10 Ea. |
O127 | Hand, Second, Brass | .20 Dz. |
All Pocket Ben parts, illustrated and listed on pages thirty-seven and thirty-eight, will fit Glo-Ben as both watches are the same with the exception of dial and hands. |
Every once in a while somebody brings in a small clock that has a two-inch movement. The clock has long outlived its usefulness, but it is valued far beyond its worth because it is a keepsake, with perhaps some sentimental association.
From a repair standpoint it may be hopeless. To try to put the movement in good running order could easily cost more than the entire clock is worth.
There's a way to fix a clock of this kind that will pay you a satisfactory profit and give excellent satisfaction to the owner.
The case usually has the keepsake value. Tell the owner you can put in a new movement so there'll be no complaint after the job is done.
The next step is to measure the diameter of the case opening. The movement shown above will fit in an opening 2 1-8 to 2 3-8 inches in diameter. Then measure the depth of the opening, the distance from the front of the case to the back . Attachments can be supplied with this movement which will enable it to fit a case not less than 1/ 4 inch from front to back, nor more than 2 1/2 inches.
If you give us the measurements correctly, we'll select the proper fitting back and send the movement out promptly. All you have to do is to screw on four nuts to fasten it firmly in the case.
This is known as our two-inch fitting movement. It has the regular Westclox patented construction, is a one-day time movement. The case is of brass. the front bezel and rim are highly polished.
The glass is of beveled French plate. The dial is clear white with neat black figures.
Be sure to remember to give us the inside diameter of the case opening, and the depth of the opening from front to back. This movement is 87c plus postage.
See PDF of the complete catalog.